Vogue 8138 drape-fronted cardigan

Pattern: Vogue 8138 ‘Vogue Easy Options’ series

Description:  Long sleeve jacket may be worn open or lower edges can be tied at front waist; sleeveless pullover top or dress has narrow hem finish on neck and armhole; pull-on pants have elastic waist finish.

Pattern sizing: 8-12, 14-18, 20-24

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Fabric: Moderate stretch knits only — wool jersey, matte jersey and cotton knits. Unsuitable for obvious diagonals, plaids or stripes. I used a poly-cotton jersey from Spotlight.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. I made the cardigan in red jersey.  This garment is essentially two rectangles of fabric joined at a seam that runs up the centre back. The sleeves are slightly tapered, have a single underarm seam and are set-in — you cut holes in the two rectangles to make the armholes.

This was the first garment I made with my new Elna overlocker. It took less than an hour. I used a three-thread safety stitch (recommended for seams) for everything except the sleeve hems, which were where I adventurously tried the rolled-hem option.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Draped front, shorter back — I have a couple of other tops that follow this general principle, and they work well with skirts, trousers and dresses.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  One major departure — I used an overlocker instead of an ordinary sewing machine. Much less fussing about with finishing seams etc, and I skipped the stay-stitching on the armhole.

Would you sew it again? If I use this pattern again, I’ll move the armholes a little bit further apart and make the sleeves a bit wider around the biceps and elbow. This will provide ease and comfort if I want to wear the cardigan over a top that has sleeves.

I would also lengthen the back by about 10 cm to improve its fall and use a ‘flat seam’ stitch for the centre-back seam. The flat-seam option may also work better for the sleeve seam and the setting-in.

The rolled-hem stitch doesn’t do much for this kind of fabric — the three-thread safety stitch looks better as an exposed, finished edge.

Would you recommend it to others? Yes, if you want a quick, simple cardy that has a bit of drama to it.

References:

• Vogue sewing pattern 8138 (official page)
• Quilt, Sew, Sew, Sue has made the dress, cardigan and pants
• Dei’s Delights made the cardigan with a Donna Karan knit fabric

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